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1. I have a new house and have never cared for trees before. What do I need to know?
It is best to have a professional evaluate your trees and see what recommendations are made. The following questions and answers cover some common recommendations and maintenance practices that will benefit most trees.
It is best to have a professional evaluate your trees and see what recommendations are made. The following questions and answers cover some common recommendations and maintenance practices that will benefit most trees.
2. What are some of the benefits of maintaining my trees?
Trees in the urban/suburban landscape have traditionally been valued for their aesthetic qualities and shade they produce. Especially in settled areas, trees have many other important benefits. Trees enhance property values. Research shows that the value of your property could increase up to 25%, depending on the size, type, location and health of its trees. Mature trees are particularly valuable. Therefore, it makes sense to protect your tree investment with proper maintenance. You may wish to document the value of your trees with photos and a professional landscape appraisal for insurance and tax purposes. Landscape trees can help you save money and live more comfortably. With properly placed trees around your house, depending upon where you live, you can reduce winter heating bills up to 15%. A mature shade tree can block up to 90% of solar radiation, which could translate to a significant reduction in your home cooling cost. Trees act as windbreaks and sun screens. They reduce air pollution by producing oxygen through photosynthesis and reduce noise pollution by acting as sound barriers. Studies show that trees have beneficial psychological effects on humans. They decrease stress, inspire minds and break emotional barriers. Around the workplace, they tend to lower absenteeism and improve productivity. Many hospitals and nursing homes have beautiful green trees around them, and evidence demonstrates that trees can speed recovery from illness and are good for your health.
Landscape appraisals can help you determine the value of your trees. A knowledgeable arborist is the best person to do appraisals. Just as a competent auto mechanic can point out needed maintenance that you might not notice, a competent, professional arborist can offer diagnosis and preventive maintenance to keep your trees in top condition.
Trees in the urban/suburban landscape have traditionally been valued for their aesthetic qualities and shade they produce. Especially in settled areas, trees have many other important benefits. Trees enhance property values. Research shows that the value of your property could increase up to 25%, depending on the size, type, location and health of its trees. Mature trees are particularly valuable. Therefore, it makes sense to protect your tree investment with proper maintenance. You may wish to document the value of your trees with photos and a professional landscape appraisal for insurance and tax purposes. Landscape trees can help you save money and live more comfortably. With properly placed trees around your house, depending upon where you live, you can reduce winter heating bills up to 15%. A mature shade tree can block up to 90% of solar radiation, which could translate to a significant reduction in your home cooling cost. Trees act as windbreaks and sun screens. They reduce air pollution by producing oxygen through photosynthesis and reduce noise pollution by acting as sound barriers. Studies show that trees have beneficial psychological effects on humans. They decrease stress, inspire minds and break emotional barriers. Around the workplace, they tend to lower absenteeism and improve productivity. Many hospitals and nursing homes have beautiful green trees around them, and evidence demonstrates that trees can speed recovery from illness and are good for your health.
Landscape appraisals can help you determine the value of your trees. A knowledgeable arborist is the best person to do appraisals. Just as a competent auto mechanic can point out needed maintenance that you might not notice, a competent, professional arborist can offer diagnosis and preventive maintenance to keep your trees in top condition.
3. My neighbors have told me that installing mulch rings around trees is good. Is that true?
Yes, trees love mulch, if applied correctly.
Mulches:
Homeowners and professional arborists depend on mulch in landscapes for several reasons. Functionally, mulches discourage weeds from growing, conserve moisture during drought periods, and allow better use of water by controlling runoff and increasing water-holding capacity of light, sandy soils. Mulches help maintain a uniform soil temperature. A 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch can add to the aesthetic value of a garden while protecting the base of trees from being injured by equipment, such as lawn mowers. Mulch rings also decrease competition from lawn grass. Lawn grass, especially when lush, robs trees of valuable nutrients and moisture.
Many organic materials can be used as a mulch. Bark mulches and wood chips are the two most commonly used mulches in most of the country. In the south, pine needles are included in that list.
Mulch can be applied just about any time of the year when trees and shrubs are being planted. The best time, however, to apply mulch in established bed areas would be in mid-spring when the soil temperature has warmed up enough for sufficient root growth. If applied earlier, the mulch will keep the soil temperature lower and root growth could be delayed. Mulches should be applied 2 to 3 or 4 inches in depth over relatively clean, weed-free soils. Do not pile mulch more than 4 inches. Identify and eradicate the weeds before the mulch is applied. Keep mulch pulled 12 inches back from the tree trunk.
Most arborists consider organic mulches as the most compatible with trees. There are, however, several inorganic materials used as mulches. These include weed barriers. Black plastic is sometimes used to discourage weeds, however it interferes with the normal oxygen and water supply to the tree’s roots. When the plastic is used, a very shallow root system is created and during drought periods the plants may not withstand the stress.
Yes, trees love mulch, if applied correctly.
Mulches:
Homeowners and professional arborists depend on mulch in landscapes for several reasons. Functionally, mulches discourage weeds from growing, conserve moisture during drought periods, and allow better use of water by controlling runoff and increasing water-
Many organic materials can be used as a mulch. Bark mulches and wood chips are the two most commonly used mulches in most of the country. In the south, pine needles are included in that list.
Mulch can be applied just about any time of the year when trees and shrubs are being planted. The best time, however, to apply mulch in established bed areas would be in mid-
Most arborists consider organic mulches as the most compatible with trees. There are, however, several inorganic materials used as mulches. These include weed barriers. Black plastic is sometimes used to discourage weeds, however it interferes with the normal oxygen and water supply to the tree’s roots. When the plastic is used, a very shallow root system is created and during drought periods the plants may not withstand the stress.
The following is a collection of best practices for consumers to follow or to use as a ruler to compare your current tree care program. This page is not meant to be a replacement for seeking advice from professionals, but more of a Basic Answers To Basic Questions someone might ask regarding tree’s and Tree Care.
4. Should I use black plastic around tree’s?
It is recommended not to use black plastic around trees.
There are, however, several landscape fabric “mulches” available that will function the same as plastic, but allow for normal water and oxygen exchange. These materials, sometimes called geo-textiles or weed barriers, are placed on bare soil around trees and shrubs with mulches used on top. There are many brands and types of materials from which to choose. They have proven to be beneficial in discouraging weeds and conserving soil moisture.
It is recommended not to use black plastic around trees.
There are, however, several landscape fabric “mulches” available that will function the same as plastic, but allow for normal water and oxygen exchange. These materials, sometimes called geo-
5. Can my tree really be damaged by a lawn mower?
Yes, trees often are wounded by careless use of yard equipment like lawn mowers, weed whips, and other trimming equipment. These injuries cut through important vascular tissue just inside the bark, which can lead to decay and ultimately death of the tree. A bed of mulch around the tree eliminates the need to trim or mow close to the tree's base. Extreme care should be taken when digging up or tilling the soil under a tree. Many large and small roots will be cut by such digging, especially if it occurs close to the trunk.
Yes, trees often are wounded by careless use of yard equipment like lawn mowers, weed whips, and other trimming equipment. These injuries cut through important vascular tissue just inside the bark, which can lead to decay and ultimately death of the tree. A bed of mulch around the tree eliminates the need to trim or mow close to the tree's base. Extreme care should be taken when digging up or tilling the soil under a tree. Many large and small roots will be cut by such digging, especially if it occurs close to the trunk.
6. Why should my trees be pruned?
Pruning trees, especially when younger, helps promote healthy trees with good branch architecture. Again, think of a tree in its native environment, the forest. There the tree is in stiff competition with other trees. It is forced to grow fast and upright to fill what is usually a very limited space. Trees growing in man-made conditions usually have much more space and less competition. They will spread out to form much broader trees than they would if located in the forest. The branch structure will often be inadequate if the tree is left to develop on it’s own. These trees can develop hazard limbs that eventually could fail, leading to an early tree death.
Pruning trees, especially when younger, helps promote healthy trees with good branch architecture. Again, think of a tree in its native environment, the forest. There the tree is in stiff competition with other trees. It is forced to grow fast and upright to fill what is usually a very limited space. Trees growing in man-
Tree Pruning:
* promotes good branch structure,
* can correct poor branch structure,
* reduces potential hazards,
* improves overall health by removing dead, diseased, and dying branches,
* gives the arborist a chance to examine the tree more closely than possible from the ground
7. I have a newly planted tree. Should I prune it?
It is generally recommended that some limited pruning be done at the time of planting.
Newly Planted Trees:
Generally, when a young tree is planted, dead, broken, and split branches should be removed. Once the tree is established (up to one year or more after planting) a central trunk or leader or well-spaced multiple trunks or leaders should be developed by removing competing leaders and heading or thinning vigorously growing branches that compete with the selected leader(s). Branches should be retained on the lower trunk to increase taper
It is generally recommended that some limited pruning be done at the time of planting.
Newly Planted Trees:
Generally, when a young tree is planted, dead, broken, and split branches should be removed. Once the tree is established (up to one year or more after planting) a central trunk or leader or well-
8. I have two different recommendations from arborists on how to prune my newly planted trees. Why is this?
Some arborists prefer to limit the amount of pruning done to a newly planted tree to give it a chance to get established. In this case the pruning will be limited to dead, dying, or diseased branches. This is the best option if the arborist will continue to care for the tree, making return visits in the future. Other arborists may recommend pruning to shape your tree for good branch development at the time of planting. This is probably the best option if no additional care will be given to the tree in the near future.
Some arborists prefer to limit the amount of pruning done to a newly planted tree to give it a chance to get established. In this case the pruning will be limited to dead, dying, or diseased branches. This is the best option if the arborist will continue to care for the tree, making return visits in the future. Other arborists may recommend pruning to shape your tree for good branch development at the time of planting. This is probably the best option if no additional care will be given to the tree in the near future.
9. Should I prune a young, established tree or is it better to just let it grow?
It is important to prune young trees in order to develop a strong scaffold branch structure. Pruning of young trees can avoid more expensive problems that could occur if the tree is allowed to grow with branch defects.
Pruning cautions:
Many tree problems, and even maintenance requirements, can be avoided by knowing the growth habit of a specific tree. Find out how fast and how large a tree normally grows. See Select and Plant. Logic and reason also apply. For example, don't plant a white oak directly beneath utility lines. As the tree grows and interferes with the lines, the tree will be pruned. This could destroy the natural character of the tree and lead to its early decline and death. Warning: Home owners should limit their tree pruning to small, lightweight branches which can be reached from the ground or they could subject themselves to severe injury and even death. The pruning of large branches and/or working off the ground should be left to professional tree experts with proper equipment.
It is important to prune young trees in order to develop a strong scaffold branch structure. Pruning of young trees can avoid more expensive problems that could occur if the tree is allowed to grow with branch defects.
Pruning cautions:
Many tree problems, and even maintenance requirements, can be avoided by knowing the growth habit of a specific tree. Find out how fast and how large a tree normally grows. See Select and Plant. Logic and reason also apply. For example, don't plant a white oak directly beneath utility lines. As the tree grows and interferes with the lines, the tree will be pruned. This could destroy the natural character of the tree and lead to its early decline and death. Warning: Home owners should limit their tree pruning to small, lightweight branches which can be reached from the ground or they could subject themselves to severe injury and even death. The pruning of large branches and/or working off the ground should be left to professional tree experts with proper equipment.
10. A neighbor said my tree care company should have used pruning paint to seal the cuts. Is this correct?
In the past, part of the standard recommendation was to apply a generous coating of a tree wound dressing to all fresh cuts. It was believed this would prevent decay-causing infection. However, research by the United States Forest Service Northeastern Forest Experiment Station proved that this practice works against nature's design and the trees' best interest. Research has proven that all of the wound dressings currently available do nothing to prevent decay, and some serve as a food source for microorganisms. They also can hold moisture against the cut wood, promoting the growth of decay-causing microorganisms. A light coating of non-toxic wound dressings can be used for cosmetic purposes.
In the past, part of the standard recommendation was to apply a generous coating of a tree wound dressing to all fresh cuts. It was believed this would prevent decay-
Wound dressing may also be recommended in some unique, limited situations, such as to control mistletoe or to discourage borer infestation that could spread diseases like Dutch Elm Disease. Consult your arborist for more information.
11. How do trees close pruning wounds? Why didn’t my tree care company cut the limb right back to the trunk?
When a tree is wounded, it sets up defensive walls against the invasion of decay fungi and other microorganisms. The vessels near the wound are plugged with gums, resins, and chemicals that resist the spread of decay. This creates protective walls within the tree. When decay develops in a branch, it moves down the branch until it reaches the protective walls. Once there, it stops. Generally, if the tree is healthy very “strong” walls can be erected and the decay can be stopped. If a tree is not healthy, it’s wall will not be as “strong.” Some trees have “genetically weaker” walls and do not do a good job at stopping decay. After initially forming the “walls,” the tree then attempts to cover over the wound with what is called wound-wood.
For branches and limbs, a region called the branch collar is where this protective chemical zone is located. The branch collar is located at the base of the branch or limb. Sometimes it can be seen as a slightly swollen area. When the branch collar is removed during pruning, such as when a cut is made flush to the trunk, it is called a flush cut. Flush cuts greatly increase the chance of the trunk becoming infected by decay and canker-causing microorganisms. Removing the branch collar (making a flush cut):
* removes the protective chemical zone;
* exposes the trunk to decay organisms;
* and creates a larger area for the wound-wood to cover, exposing the wound for a longer period of time.
A properly made pruning cut, called a collar cut, leaves the branch collar in tact. This results in a doughnut-like ring of wound-wood forming all the way around the wound. With this type of pruning cut closure may take only a few months for small wounds. Larger wounds may take years to close, or may not close at all.
When a tree is wounded, it sets up defensive walls against the invasion of decay fungi and other microorganisms. The vessels near the wound are plugged with gums, resins, and chemicals that resist the spread of decay. This creates protective walls within the tree. When decay develops in a branch, it moves down the branch until it reaches the protective walls. Once there, it stops. Generally, if the tree is healthy very “strong” walls can be erected and the decay can be stopped. If a tree is not healthy, it’s wall will not be as “strong.” Some trees have “genetically weaker” walls and do not do a good job at stopping decay. After initially forming the “walls,” the tree then attempts to cover over the wound with what is called wound-
For branches and limbs, a region called the branch collar is where this protective chemical zone is located. The branch collar is located at the base of the branch or limb. Sometimes it can be seen as a slightly swollen area. When the branch collar is removed during pruning, such as when a cut is made flush to the trunk, it is called a flush cut. Flush cuts greatly increase the chance of the trunk becoming infected by decay and canker-
* removes the protective chemical zone;
* exposes the trunk to decay organisms;
* and creates a larger area for the wound-
A properly made pruning cut, called a collar cut, leaves the branch collar in tact. This results in a doughnut-
12. Should I have my tree topped?
The short answer is no. Topping, tipping, heading back and dehorning are all terms used to describe severe cutting back of a tree's crown. It is a poor arboricultural practice and should not be used for healthy tree maintenance.
Topping:
* destroys the tree's branch structure
* gives multiple points of entry for wood decay organisms
* can turn your tree into a hazard, creating a liability for which you could be held responsible
* does not limit tree growth as advertised by tree toppers.
Though topping often leads to many large, fast-growing sprouts, these sprouts are attached to stubs that soon become rotten. The sprouts then become hazards as they grow larger.
The common reason given for topping is to limit the growth of a tree, but this does not occur. In reality, the fast-growing, vigorous water-sprouts will actually outgrow a similar-sized tree that has not been topped in about 5 years after the topping.
The short answer is no. Topping, tipping, heading back and dehorning are all terms used to describe severe cutting back of a tree's crown. It is a poor arboricultural practice and should not be used for healthy tree maintenance.
Topping:
* destroys the tree's branch structure
* gives multiple points of entry for wood decay organisms
* can turn your tree into a hazard, creating a liability for which you could be held responsible
* does not limit tree growth as advertised by tree toppers.
Though topping often leads to many large, fast-
The common reason given for topping is to limit the growth of a tree, but this does not occur. In reality, the fast-
13. Should I have my trees lion’s tailed?
Again the short answer is no. Lion’s tailing is the “gutting-out” of a tree by removing a large number of the inner branches. The limb’s of the tree look like a lion’s tail after pruning. The limbs will appear “long and slender” with a “puff” of foliage at the end.
Lion’s tailing:
* is a form of over-pruning, too much foliage is removed so that the health of the tree could be jeopardized;
* leaves too much weight at the end of the branch;
* exposes the inner portion of the tree to sunburn and growth of water-sprouts;
* may make your tree a hazard since the branches may become weak and break
Again the short answer is no. Lion’s tailing is the “gutting-
Lion’s tailing:
* is a form of over-
* exposes the inner portion of the tree to sunburn and growth of water-
15. My neighbor said I should only prune trees in fall or winter. Is this true?
Pruning trees does not have to be limited to fall or winter. Granted, fall and winter are good times to prune as the tree is dormant. Points to consider when deciding when to prune:
* Spring-flowering trees can be pruned as soon as the leaves turn dark green and harden to avoid cutting off any of the following year’s flower buds.
* Summer-flowering trees can be pruned before new growth begins in early spring to avoid cutting off any of the current year’s flower buds.
* Palms are often pruned in the spring so that flower stalks can be removed before they produce messy fruit.
Birches, dogwoods, elms, hack berries, magnolias, maples, poplars, walnuts, willows, and a few other trees are known as "bleeders". When these species are pruned in late winter or early spring, the wounds may bleed. This flow of sap is more unsightly than damaging to the tree. In fact, sap at this time of year is roughly 98% water and 2% sugar, so little energy is lost through a bleeding wound. The sap flow will taper off and cease as the new leaves turn dark green and harden. Pruning these trees could be delayed until the leaves turn dark green and harden if you have aesthetic concerns. Exceptions: There are a few trees susceptible to insect and disease problems that could be encouraged if pruning is done at the wrong time.
The most common example is Dutch Elm Disease. This disease has devastated the nation’s population of American elm trees. The fungal disease is spread primarily by the elm bark beetle (elms growing close together can spread the disease through their roots). The beetle is attracted to fresh pruning cuts when it is active in mid to late spring and early summer. It bores into the wood, spreading the fungal disease. Pruning of susceptible elms should not be done during this period to avoid attracting elm bark beetles.
Similar diseases and infestations carried by boring beetles, but less widespread than Dutch Elm Disease, are Oak Wilt, most serious in the Mid-West and Texas, and Pine Wilt Nematode and Blue-Stain Wilt of pine, most serious in the Southeast. Eucalyptus borer infestations can be a problem for eucalyptus trees in the western United States.
Tree care professionals may recommend that pruning of susceptible pines, oaks, and eucalyptus trees be avoided 1) when boring beetles are active and 2) if diseases they might carry are prevalent in your area.
Fire blight is a very different disease, but its spread can be avoided by correct timing of pruning. Fire blight is a bacteria that infects ornamental and fruit trees in the Rose family. It is most serious on apples, crab apples, and pears. The disease is spread by rain water, especially when the trees are in flower. Avoid spreading this disease by not pruning when these trees are in flower or when it is raining. A similar disease spread by rainfall is Cytospora Canker of spruce, most serious in the northern tier of the United States. Avoid pruning spruce when it is raining if Cytospora canker is a problem in your area. Avoid pruning these trees during rainy weather:
* Rose family trees such as apples and pears
* Spruce
* Honey locust
Pruning trees does not have to be limited to fall or winter. Granted, fall and winter are good times to prune as the tree is dormant. Points to consider when deciding when to prune:
* Spring-
Birches, dogwoods, elms, hack berries, magnolias, maples, poplars, walnuts, willows, and a few other trees are known as "bleeders". When these species are pruned in late winter or early spring, the wounds may bleed. This flow of sap is more unsightly than damaging to the tree. In fact, sap at this time of year is roughly 98% water and 2% sugar, so little energy is lost through a bleeding wound. The sap flow will taper off and cease as the new leaves turn dark green and harden. Pruning these trees could be delayed until the leaves turn dark green and harden if you have aesthetic concerns. Exceptions: There are a few trees susceptible to insect and disease problems that could be encouraged if pruning is done at the wrong time.
The most common example is Dutch Elm Disease. This disease has devastated the nation’s population of American elm trees. The fungal disease is spread primarily by the elm bark beetle (elms growing close together can spread the disease through their roots). The beetle is attracted to fresh pruning cuts when it is active in mid to late spring and early summer. It bores into the wood, spreading the fungal disease. Pruning of susceptible elms should not be done during this period to avoid attracting elm bark beetles.
Similar diseases and infestations carried by boring beetles, but less widespread than Dutch Elm Disease, are Oak Wilt, most serious in the Mid-
Tree care professionals may recommend that pruning of susceptible pines, oaks, and eucalyptus trees be avoided 1) when boring beetles are active and 2) if diseases they might carry are prevalent in your area.
Fire blight is a very different disease, but its spread can be avoided by correct timing of pruning. Fire blight is a bacteria that infects ornamental and fruit trees in the Rose family. It is most serious on apples, crab apples, and pears. The disease is spread by rain water, especially when the trees are in flower. Avoid spreading this disease by not pruning when these trees are in flower or when it is raining. A similar disease spread by rainfall is Cytospora Canker of spruce, most serious in the northern tier of the United States. Avoid pruning spruce when it is raining if Cytospora canker is a problem in your area. Avoid pruning these trees during rainy weather:
* Rose family trees such as apples and pears
* Spruce
* Honey locust
16. Do my trees need water?
That depends. Your trees will need watering if they are newly planted or your area is suffering from drought conditions. If you are receiving normal or close to normal rainfall for your area, then you should not have to water your established trees. Exception: If you live in a dry or desert area, or have sandy soil, and someone has planted a tree not suited for these conditions, then the trees may require more water than even normal rainfall can provide to survive. Depending on the cost and availability of water in your area, it may be better to replace such trees with others better adapted to your local environment. See Selection and Planting of Trees.
Installing mulch will conserve soil moisture and reduce the amount of water needed. See Mulches. If you are installing an irrigation system you need to consult a professional arborist to be certain that first, the installation will not harm existing trees, and second, that the irrigation programming is set for the tree’s watering requirements, not just the turf grass.
That depends. Your trees will need watering if they are newly planted or your area is suffering from drought conditions. If you are receiving normal or close to normal rainfall for your area, then you should not have to water your established trees. Exception: If you live in a dry or desert area, or have sandy soil, and someone has planted a tree not suited for these conditions, then the trees may require more water than even normal rainfall can provide to survive. Depending on the cost and availability of water in your area, it may be better to replace such trees with others better adapted to your local environment. See Selection and Planting of Trees.
Installing mulch will conserve soil moisture and reduce the amount of water needed. See Mulches. If you are installing an irrigation system you need to consult a professional arborist to be certain that first, the installation will not harm existing trees, and second, that the irrigation programming is set for the tree’s watering requirements, not just the turf grass.
Watering
Moisture is critical to trees, but too much moisture can cause serious damage. The amount of water to apply depends on the tree.
Watering newly planted trees:Watering should be done at the time of planting to settle the soil and to assure adequate soil moisture. The first watering is normally done by the planting crew soon after planting. After the first watering, adequate water must be provided by the property owner unless there has been sufficient rain to keep the soil moist. The critical months for watering are May through September (this period of time may be extended in warm climates). Selecting the proper plant is very important for dry, desert-like climates to avoid heavy watering requirements. It is usually recommended to choose plants that are suited for dry conditions; this type of landscaping is called xerophytic. Most trees need to be watered for 2 or 3 years after transplanting to provide adequate soil moisture while root systems are becoming established. In the past it was recommended that a “saucer” be formed around the soil ball to make a water-holding reservoir. Recent studies have shown that this practice actually encourages roots to stay in the area of the soil ball instead of growing into the surrounding soil. This can increase the time it takes for the tree to get established in the landscape. It is now recommended that the root ball and surrounding area of a newly transplanted tree be watered.
To determine the level of moisture, remove a small amount of soil at the edge of the ball with a hand trowel and squeeze it. If you can form a moist sticky ball, it is too wet. If it crumbles like chalk, it is too dry. You must provide enough water to keep at least the top 4 inches of soil moist. The exact amount of water needed will vary.
A 3-inch diameter tree moved by a tree spade may require 60 to 80 gallons of water every 10 days if rain does not occur.
Distributed soils are frequently high in clay subsoil and tend to drain poorly. If these conditions exist, watering for a prolonged period of time may result in over watering and cause the roots to drown from lack of adequate soil aeration. Adding large quantities of water too frequently to heavy clay soils is detrimental and will result in death of the tree. Conversely, waiting until the tree wilts and the leaves start to turn brown is too late to water.
Watering established trees: Large trees can be watered with lawn sprinklers. Apply water at rate of 1 inch per watering, 2 inches if there is vigorous lawn grass near and under the tree. Water at a rate low enough to keep water from running off. Do not water daily, this can damage your tree by suffocating it’s roots. Instead plan your watering based on the severity of the drought conditions. Generally anywhere from once every two weeks to once every 4 to 5 days will suffice.
Most tree roots are not very deep (within the upper 4 to 8 inches of soil), and deep roots will receive water if enough is applied to the soil surface. Tree roots can extend away from the tree at a distance as far as the tree is tall, and in many cases much farther. Therefore, it is usually beneficial to water the entire yard to be certain the tree is watered. You can also alternate the sides of the tree you water, from one watering to the next, making tree watering easier while conserving water.
Moisture is critical to trees, but too much moisture can cause serious damage. The amount of water to apply depends on the tree.
Watering newly planted trees:Watering should be done at the time of planting to settle the soil and to assure adequate soil moisture. The first watering is normally done by the planting crew soon after planting. After the first watering, adequate water must be provided by the property owner unless there has been sufficient rain to keep the soil moist. The critical months for watering are May through September (this period of time may be extended in warm climates). Selecting the proper plant is very important for dry, desert-
To determine the level of moisture, remove a small amount of soil at the edge of the ball with a hand trowel and squeeze it. If you can form a moist sticky ball, it is too wet. If it crumbles like chalk, it is too dry. You must provide enough water to keep at least the top 4 inches of soil moist. The exact amount of water needed will vary.
A 3-
Watering established trees: Large trees can be watered with lawn sprinklers. Apply water at rate of 1 inch per watering, 2 inches if there is vigorous lawn grass near and under the tree. Water at a rate low enough to keep water from running off. Do not water daily, this can damage your tree by suffocating it’s roots. Instead plan your watering based on the severity of the drought conditions. Generally anywhere from once every two weeks to once every 4 to 5 days will suffice.
Most tree roots are not very deep (within the upper 4 to 8 inches of soil), and deep roots will receive water if enough is applied to the soil surface. Tree roots can extend away from the tree at a distance as far as the tree is tall, and in many cases much farther. Therefore, it is usually beneficial to water the entire yard to be certain the tree is watered. You can also alternate the sides of the tree you water, from one watering to the next, making tree watering easier while conserving water.
17. Should I fertilize my trees?
Trees often require fertilization at some point in their life span. Remember, most tree’s natural environment is the forest. There nutrients are continually recycled as leaves and other plant, and even animal material, fall and decompose on the forest floor. When you put a tree in a landscape setting it is usually deprived of these nutrients.
One thing you can do is try to recreate the tree’s natural environment by providing mulch rings. See Mulches. Most people, however, will not be able to mulch their whole yard! Fertilization is needed by many trees to replace the nutrients they are missing. Fertilizing Shade trees, like any other landscape plants, will respond to fertilization. Most shade trees exist in nature without much care, but transplanting trees into urban areas or man-made conditions can create problems. Often these trees will be growing in restricted root zone areas, be surrounded by pavement or compacted soil or even be physically damaged by construction activities. One should realize that the root system is just as important (and delicate) as the above ground parts. Fertilizer alone will not improve the health of a tree stressed by one of these environmental conditions. Fertilizer is only one factor in the complex formula of plant requirements. See Plant Health Care. Here’s how to detect if your tree needs fertilizing. Symptoms of a nutrient deficient tree include:
* a slow rate and low amount of annual growth on twigs and trunk,
* smaller than normal foliage,
* off-color foliage,
* increased amounts of dead branches,
* tip-die back in branches,
* and increased rates of disease and insect problems.
Trees often require fertilization at some point in their life span. Remember, most tree’s natural environment is the forest. There nutrients are continually recycled as leaves and other plant, and even animal material, fall and decompose on the forest floor. When you put a tree in a landscape setting it is usually deprived of these nutrients.
One thing you can do is try to recreate the tree’s natural environment by providing mulch rings. See Mulches. Most people, however, will not be able to mulch their whole yard! Fertilization is needed by many trees to replace the nutrients they are missing. Fertilizing Shade trees, like any other landscape plants, will respond to fertilization. Most shade trees exist in nature without much care, but transplanting trees into urban areas or man-
* a slow rate and low amount of annual growth on twigs and trunk,
* smaller than normal foliage,
* off-
* tip-
Trees that possess these symptoms generally would respond to a fertilization treatment. One should make sure that nutrients (or lack of) are the problem before fertilizing. Other common tree disorders to be aware of in urban areas would include poor planting techniques, moisture problems, construction damage, girdling roots, or utility leaks from a natural gas line or sewer line.
18. How does the arborist determine when to fertilize? Why does my tree need a soil test?
Arborists have a number of tools at their disposal. The best is the arborist’s knowledge of local soil and environmental conditions. The arborist may be able to make a fertilization recommendation simply by examining your tree and yard. This saves the client time and money. On other occasions the problem may be more complex and the arborist will recommend a soil and/or foliar analysis to determine the problem.Your arborist does know that most shade trees growing in landscape settings will need nitrogen. Nitrogen is not stable in the soil. It is easily washed away by water and may periodically need to be replaced.
Arborists have a number of tools at their disposal. The best is the arborist’s knowledge of local soil and environmental conditions. The arborist may be able to make a fertilization recommendation simply by examining your tree and yard. This saves the client time and money. On other occasions the problem may be more complex and the arborist will recommend a soil and/or foliar analysis to determine the problem.Your arborist does know that most shade trees growing in landscape settings will need nitrogen. Nitrogen is not stable in the soil. It is easily washed away by water and may periodically need to be replaced.
19. The arborist said the problem with my tree isn’t lack of nutrients but soil pH. What does that mean?
Before recommending a fertilizer, the arborist may note that other problems need to be addressed. An improper soil pH often makes it more difficult for a tree’s roots to absorb needed nutrients, even when those nutrients are abundant in the soil. Generally a pH range of 5.2-6.2 is the most desirable. Acid soils are sometimes limed to raise the pH, but more commonly, basic soils are treated with sulfur to adjust the pH downward. Maintaining a soil pH range of 5.2-6.2 for shade trees generally insures that essential plant nutrients will be available to the tree.
Before recommending a fertilizer, the arborist may note that other problems need to be addressed. An improper soil pH often makes it more difficult for a tree’s roots to absorb needed nutrients, even when those nutrients are abundant in the soil. Generally a pH range of 5.2-
20. What is a tree?
A tree is a complex, living organism. There are many different definitions for a tree and for each you can probably think of some exceptions. Webster’s defines a tree: 1a: a woody perennial plant having a single usually elongate main stem generally with few or no branches on its lower part. It also defines a shade tree: a tree grown primarily to produce shade. In general it can be said that trees:
* Are perennial plants
* Have relatively long life spans
* Have woody trunks
* Have bark for protection
* Have leaves to produce their own food
* Have roots to gather water and mineral nutrients
Specifically, trees can be divided into three categories:
1. Conifers usually have:
* Cones, or cone-like structures, instead of flowers
* Evergreen leaves that are needle-like, scale-like, strap-like, or awl-shaped (there are some conifers that shed their leaves every fall, these trees are termed deciduous)
* Soft wood
2. Shade trees usually have:
* True Flowers
* Deciduous leaves of various shapes (there are evergreen shade trees, especially in tropical areas)
* Hard wood
3. Plants that grow like, or are trained to grow like trees. Examples:
* Palms
* Tree Ferns
* Tree Hydrangea
Interesting Note: Palms are routinely considered trees, although technically they are more closely related to your lawn grass than any shade tree or conifer!
A tree is a complex, living organism. There are many different definitions for a tree and for each you can probably think of some exceptions. Webster’s defines a tree: 1a: a woody perennial plant having a single usually elongate main stem generally with few or no branches on its lower part. It also defines a shade tree: a tree grown primarily to produce shade. In general it can be said that trees:
* Are perennial plants
* Have relatively long life spans
* Have woody trunks
* Have bark for protection
* Have leaves to produce their own food
* Have roots to gather water and mineral nutrients
Specifically, trees can be divided into three categories:
1. Conifers usually have:
* Cones, or cone-
2. Shade trees usually have:
* True Flowers
* Deciduous leaves of various shapes (there are evergreen shade trees, especially in tropical areas)
* Hard wood
3. Plants that grow like, or are trained to grow like trees. Examples:
* Palms
* Tree Ferns
* Tree Hydrangea
Interesting Note: Palms are routinely considered trees, although technically they are more closely related to your lawn grass than any shade tree or conifer!
